Smeg Dishwasher Error Codes

Causes:

• The presence of water in the basin is due to water leaks from the tub, the aqua-stop hose, components in the base (wash pump, drainage pump, softener unit, etc.), and from the connection hose.
• The flood prevention system float, due to incorrect positioning, keeps the switch “closed”.
• Defective flood prevention system switch.
• Electrical connections were carried out poorly.
• Defective timer board.

Solutions:

• Empty the basin of water in order to restore the float to its normal operating position. Determine where the leak occurs by operating the dishwasher.
• Reposition the flood prevention system correctly so that the float returns to the normal operating position.
• Check the correct operation of the switch as shown below (1).
• Ensure that the electrical connections are correct (in accordance with the electrical diagram) and properly carried out on both the flood prevention system and the timer board. Using an electrical tester set to the “ohm” position, check the electrical continuity of the connections as shown on the electrical diagram. Restore any defective connections.
• Once it is ascertained that none of the above causes have occurred, you must ensure that the defect is due to the timer board. Turn on the dishwasher and set a new cycle. The dishwasher will immediately begin to drain for 3 minutes. If the error appears, it means that the PCB is defective. Replace the electronic board.

Causes:

• Defective heating element.
• Electrical connections were carried out poorly.
• Faulty wash pump
• Defective electronic board.

Solutions:

• Check the condition of the heating element. With the aid of an electrical tester, set a resistance measurement that should read about 25 ohms. If the measurement indicates “open,” the heating element is defective; therefore, replace it.
• Check that the electrical connections are inserted well, both on the heating element and the electronic board. Using an electrical tester set to the “ohm” position, check the electrical continuity of the connections. Restore any defective connections.
• If the wash pump does not work, water does not circulate, and therefore there will be no heating in the tub. Replace the wash pump and check the condition of the heating element.
• In the event that the previous possibilities were checked with negative results, it is likely that the relay on the electronic board is defective. In this case, the voltage at the ends of the heating element should be monitored with a multimeter in the heating phase. In fact, during the heating phase, there should be 220 volts at the heating element terminals. This voltage must be monitored for a certain amount of time so that the relay can work properly on activation, and then the problem could occur only after a few minutes of operation. In this case, replace the timer board.

Causes:

• Electrical connections were carried out poorly.
• Defective temperature probe.
• Electronic boards do not detect temperature variations.

Solutions:

• Check that the electrical connections are correctly carried out both on the probe and on the timer board. Also check the electrical continuity of these connections. Restore any defective connections.
• Use your multimeter to measure the resistance value at the probe terminals. It should be approximately 11.5 kiloohm at 25°C. If an open circuit is detected, the probe is defective and should therefore be replaced.
• In the event that the previous possibilities were checked with negative results, the timer board does not detect temperature variations and therefore is defective. Replace the timer board.

Causes:

• The tap is closed.
• Inlet water valve hose squeezed or clogged
• Inlet valve electrical connections were carried out poorly.
• Defective inlet valve
• The electronic board does not activate intake I.V.

Solutions:

• Open the tap.
• Ensure that the intake hose is not crimped and that the screen filter is clean. Restore the correct positioning of the intake hose and clean the filter.
• Check that the inlet valve and electronic board electrical connections are carried out properly. Using an electrical tester set to the “ohm” position, check the electrical continuity of the connections. Restore any defective connections.
• Verify the correct operation of the inlet valve. Using an electrical tester in resistance measurement mode, ensure that there is no “open” on the coil terminals. If this is the case, it means that the inlet valve is defective and therefore should be replaced.
• In the event that the electrical connections are found to be OK, use an electrical tester in “alternating voltage” mode to check whether or not the inlet valve receives the command from the electronic board during the intake phase. In fact, in this phase, the inlet valve must be powered at 220 volts. Otherwise, replace the main PCB.

Causes:

• The drainage hose is positioned improperly, obstructed, or squeezed.
• Defective level pressure switch.
• The drainage pump is defective or clogged.
• Drainage pump electrical connections were carried out poorly.
• The electronic board does not activate the drainage pump or detect the level signal.

Solutions:

• Check that the drainage hose is not crimped Restore the correct positioning and operation of the drainage hose.
• Empty the tub and use an electrical tester to verify the correct operation of the level pressure switch in accordance with the electrical diagram. If defective, replace the level pressure switch.
• Verify the correct operation of the drainage pump. Using an electrical tester in resistance measurement mode, ensure that there is no “open” on the drainage pump terminals. If this is the case, it means that the drainage pump is defective and therefore should be replaced. In some cases, it may occur that the drainage pump, although the checks with the electrical tester appear correct, does not “engage”. Replace the drainage pump in this case as well.
• Check that the drainage pump and electronic board electrical connections are carried out properly. Using an electrical tester set to the “ohm” position, check the electrical continuity of the connections as shown on the electrical diagram. Restore any defective connections.
• In the event that the above possibilities are checked with negative results, use an electrical tester in “alternating voltage” mode to check whether or not the drainage pump receives the command from the electronic board during the drainage phase. In fact, in this phase, the drainage pump must be powered at 220 Vac. In the event that the drainage pump works correctly but the error is signaled anyway, this means that the timer board does not detect the empty tub, and it is therefore defective. In both cases, replace the electronic board.

Causes:

• Damaged electrical connections were carried out poorly.
• Faulty flow meter “reed switch”.
• Turbine blocked.
• Electronic boards do not detect the signal from the turbine.

Solutions:

• Check that the turbine and electronic board electrical connections are carried out properly. Using an electrical tester set to the “ohm” position, check the electrical continuity of the connections as shown on the electrical diagram. Restore any defective connections.
• Remove the block; if possible, replace the component.
• In the event that the previous possibilities were checked with negative results, the timer board does not detect the signal variation from the turbine and therefore is defective. Replace the timer board.

Causes:

• Alternating valve electrical connections were carried out poorly.
• Defective alternating valve.
• Electronic boards do not power the alternating valve motor or detect the positioning signal.

Solutions:

• Check that the alternating valve and electronic board electrical connections are carried out properly. Using an electrical tester set to the “ohm” position, check the electrical continuity of the connections as shown on the electrical diagram. Restore any defective connections.
• Check the operation of the motor, powering it with 220 Vac, and ensure that it works without crackling. Check that the internal gears that can be seen turn freely. If defective, replace the alternating valve.
• To verify the alternating valve’s operation and diagnose potential issues, follow these steps:
  • Confirm power supply:
    • Using a multimeter, measure the voltage at the valve’s power connections when it should be activated.
    • Ensure 220 Vac is present, indicating a proper power supply.
  • Initiate the test cycle:
    • Activate the dishwasher’s test cycle to directly observe the valve’s functionality.
    • The alternating valve is typically energized at the start of each test cycle, allowing for a clear assessment.
  • Assess valve and motor function:
    • Visually inspect the valve’s movement during the test cycle to confirm its operation.
    • Listen for any unusual sounds that may suggest mechanical issues.
  • Isolate faulty components:
    • If the valve functions correctly during the test cycle but the board fails to detect its positioning signal, it likely indicates a faulty timer board.
    • In this case, replacement of the timer board is necessary.

Causes:

• The inlet valve stuck and/or was always open.
• Faulty water level switch
• Leaking of water from the tub

Solutions:

• Check that the water inlet valve does not stay open or draw.
• Check the pressure switch.
• Check that there are no leaks from the tub.

Causes:

• Electrical connections were carried out poorly.
• Electronic boards do not detect the signal from the sensor.

Solutions:

• Check that the electrical connections are correctly carried out both on the sensor and on the timer board. Also check the electrical continuity of these connections. Restore any defective connections.
• In the event that the previous possibilities were checked with negative results, the timer board does not detect the signal from the sensor and therefore is defective. Replace the timer board.